We had heard a lot about Srisalam and this scenic drive to Lord Shiva’s temple so on the last Holi, we made a programme to visit this place. I had done the booking for Srisalam guest house. On the journey day, we were able to be on road at 9:15 am. I knew the route till Nagarjuna sagar exit, so after Uppal circle, L B Nagar, passing Ramoji Film City exit (NH 9) and then Nagarjuna sagar road lights exit, as I had been told to keep straight. After 2 Kms or so at this sort of T junction as I was coming from left short side of this T was directed by policeman to keep left and my destination was now Shasmsabad. This airport was also about to open, so we wanted to see the new airport as well. We hit NH7 (for Bangalore) but before the flyover there was this route indicating the way to Srisalam and we took that. Kalwakurthi was the main town around 80 Kms away as road was winding out and traffic was not that heavy, but was there. After a few KMs we crossed this new airport exit, where signs were for the airport (being 4 Kms away) were there. Road was smooth and for 50 Kms or so we could see real estates boards announcing this or that city is coming there. Some Fab city boards were also there. At Kalwakurthi, one needs to take a left turn as we carried on and returned after a Km to get the correct road. We had been told as we got the signs for Dwarkonda that we need to take right after 8 Kms or so, and this perpendicular route we were able to locate. It was Holi day so although we had seen earlier people playing Holi on the roads, no one bothered us, but now on this road we were stopped by one group of boys and after some gestures and seeing the family they allowed us to move ahead. Then at another spot we were stopped by 10 – 15 young men and I knew it was a trouble, yet I kept my cool and kept on pointing to my family. I knew they wanted some money, but I was not sure how much and in front of mob, one is just helpless. Anyway after some pleading they allowed us to leave yet 2 baloons were thrown on the vehicle. Ahead we saw one more stop, but there were 3 Sumos were stopped there coming from other side and there were arguments going on and I knew some money had exchanged hands, as seeing the turmoil, I could just leave, yet after the village, as we took the left turn for mountainous stretch of the road, we were stopped by this big gypsy group. They had put full barrier on the road and women were dancing and males had come in front of the vehicle. I was a bit relaxed as I knew due to families in the group, there won’t be violence as such. I gestured that I am offering money, and handing over 50/-, I was allowed to go to see one more barrier but as these families were not fully prepared, seeing the gap, I moved away to be stopped by one last group and this time it was full of village women (20+) and giving them Rs 20/- we could leave. We came out ok but in front of these young men, I was quite concerned.
At Srisalam jungle check post one needs to give vehicle entry and a policeman entering the details pocketed some money. One needs to be careful as between 6 pm evening till 9 am next morning no traffic is allowed beyond this check post; so one needs to arrive at this gate before 6 pm. We bought some refreshments as well. Now we crossed this jungle on Nallamalli hills. Like a serrated chunks the road winds up and down as one crosses this set of hills, we came across this beautiful river Krishna and the dam. From picturesque point of view, I found the view far better than Nagarujana sagar (may be because one is not allowed on the dam there), yet here for Srisalam one needs to cross the river so one needs to go down along the river, cross the bridge and then take the road to Srisalam from other side. Good view and water was green in colour. One can get the magnificent view of the dam and in the location and bridge view this place looks similar to Nagarjuna sagar. Climbing up and on the way many breath taking views come of the river, dam and reservoir and then we observe Srisalam town at a distance. It is a holy city as paying the entry fees of Rs 30/- and enquiring about the AP tourism guest house as we had a reservation there, we were told to go down the main road and take the second left. The guest house was nearby. We checked in. The room was ok but for a family with 2 kids, one needs bigger room. We were in the room around 2:30 pm and went to restaurant for lunch and the famous poor service of AP tourism was on display. I don’t know why this place does not keep open round the clock and why variety of food is not available. There was no lack of customers. The place was full, but on the offer was set meals of rice with a couple of curries and chappatis. APSTC (AP State Tourism Corporation) must improve the service at their restaurants. We had been told at the reception that temple would open in the evening as Aarti is there at 6:30 pm, yet it remains open till 9:30 pm. So after a nap in the evening we visited the temple around 8pm. It is at walking distance. One thing we noticed that town is dotted with speakers which keep on announcing activities in the temple and all around one gets the feeling of religious fervour. This is especially true when one can start hearing morning Aarti rituals, mantras, slokas in the early morning around 4am and later Bhajans are played throughout the day. Keeping our footwear aside before we started for the temple passage, we were told of two queues. One with a free darshan a long one and one with Rs 100/person ticket and we took 4 of the same and stood in this queue which was moving faster. In a way, I like this idea as it does generate some revenue for the temple so that surrounding amenities for the pilgrims, visitors can be improved. As we neared the Sanctum Sanctorum we came across a big Nandi (bull) statue and as we our queue curved to the main idol as Mallikarjun Jyotirligam and as the lady asked us to hurry we bowed and paid our obeisance from the distance. First surprise was for me and kids was it was very tiny lingam whereas compared to Nandi we thought it would be big and second one we saw there were many families who were touching the lingam from other side of the idol and we wondered how this was possible and asked and were told for this one needs to shell out Rs 600/person charge. Leaving the premises and collecting our prasad of 1 laddu/person we moved to Goddess Parvati’s temple. We had been told of that we can take separate prasad of laddus if we pay extra money but we could not locate any counter any where and I feel this part of the service can be improved. Paying our obeisances here we came out. It was drizzling slightly. As Srisalam is a religious town and it is existing because of being a holy place, I feel facilities should be further improved. For the queues there should be sitting slabs so that old people, kids can sit. There should be roof over the passage which covers people from sun or rains. Toilet facilities should be plenty and at a distance whereas provision of water near the temple is mandatory. On the way back one can pass through 2 markets which converge in front of the temple. We ate our meals at one tiffin place and started for our room. Later sleep. Room for a family of 4 even with two separate beds is small and AC is right next to bed. Anyway, managing to sleep in the morning I went out for a walk around 6:30 am and covered the town a bit and wondered how this place accommodates lakhs and lakhs during the festivals. Later leisure visit to restaurant for breakfast but it was a task to have a proper breakfast as every second person was arguing with them about the buffet system and them restricting the portions. One was willing to pay but food was arriving at a very slow and laboured way. We were staying one more night so our next destination was cable ropeway near the Krishna reservoir and subsequent boat ride. This place is around 1.5 Kms from the guest house and vehicle can go to this AP tourism spot. The place is closed for lunch for 1 hour, yet I wonder why it should be when it is public venue. Anyway, buying Rs 30/person ticket as my daughter was afraid to go yet we prevailed upon her and after a bit of wait and seeing from the window this picturesque scene of reservoir and cable car we got into cable car. It can accommodate 4 persons at a time and allows to and fro in the same ticket. It is all over in 5 mts or so as we descended and from there we went to this point where AP tourism boat was available. After a bit of wait for these guys to finish the lunch we all got into motor boat (50 – 75 seaters) and they take you for 15 mts round near the dam. There is some excursion for 3.5 hours as well for some caves, but this needs to be planned in advance. On the way back, we saw this bathing ghat from a distance where people were bathing in the river and some boys were swimming near the shore. Climb up in the cable car and after this our next destination was Shikhar Darshan, around 8 KMs from the town. There are a couple of other famous temples in surrounding areas but we were not that keen. The road meanders upwards. Parking the vehicle at a distance as there was steep gradient at a height, it was a picturesque sight with a cool breeze. Rs 2/person is the token ticket and we stood in the queue to go to the roof where the idea is from a small strategically place small Nandi (bull) statue one can see the top of SriSalam temple. It was a good refreshing sight. After a round; one needs to be careful of monkeys there who are not that afraid of humans and they are in lookout for food and may even snatch a packet from one’s hands if one is not careful. Continuing our exploration, we went towards the dam and on the way stopped at this viewpoint where photographers are there to shoot your snaps for Rs 50/snap and they invariably shoot 4 – 5. I bargained a bit and told him Rs 50/- is costly and got 5 snaps for Rs 200/- . Then to last adventure of the day, as I took this detour to the kachha road which led to the river bed. The river was at a distance so we took the vehicle further, parked it and then walked on these stones (Kids collected some for souvenirs) and went to the middle of the river where the river was flowing in small rivulets. Removing our shoes and sands we sat on stones and dipped our feet in the Krishna river water and splashed in it a bit. One needs to be careful on bigger stones as due to algae, many were slippery. As sun was setting, we decided to return.
In the evening usual dinner in the tiffin house as kids were not interested in set meals of guest house restaurant. Next day I got up around 4 am and went for morning walk towards these bathing ghats. This experience was something. At that hour, families with young children, older people, youngs, adults, sadhus were climbing down these hundreds of stairs to the river for a bath. There were a number of barbers tonsuring kids and adults' head on the way. Stairs were a bit slippery due to drizzle but I could see people rich or poor all had some objective and determination to be there. Near this bathing place which was a makeshift place, one could see shampoo, oil sachets and I wonder why government can't improve this infrastructure. Why could not they spend some money to make a pucca ghat and provide separate enclosure of ladies and changing rooms. This is where Hindunism fails. As a group, we don't know how to take care of pilgrims. The whole sanctity of temple goes for a toss if these basic amenities are not provided to pilgrims. There must of more than 1000 people using this bathing ghat in early morning but from facilities point of view these were just not there. The place was not clean. Garbage, plastic bottles scattered around, sachet shells ... all this cleaning and infrastructure needs some funds which I am sure temple is able to garner. Sighing and climbing back I returned after an hour.
Next is this trip to Hyderabad as we checked out around 10 am and reached our home (Hyderabad) around 4 pm and on the way back we took a detour towards New airport. It had just started its operations a day earlier and it was raining profusely and seeing the departure venue and having a good view we took the signs for NH7 and managed to hit Banjara Hills via Masab tank around 4pm.
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